Do you find brush styling so difficult to master? I am sharing a simplified method that anyone can try to smooth out frizz and enhance your curl bounce and curl clumping.

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Step 1: Apply styling products to clean, damp or wet hair

Purpose: Provide slip for brush styling and maximum definition & hold.

Start with clean, damp hair that has already been shampooed, conditioned, and detangled.

If you want to maximize your hold and definition, apply your styling products, especially your gel (as long as it has slip), before you brush style. This will also give you slip so you don’t cause damage when brush styling. Applying gel before brush styling will ensure it evenly coats every strand of hair to tame frizz.

Today I’m going with the Tootilab All Weather Styling Gel, which I will apply after I section. This gel gives a medium hold, has lots of slip for brush styling, and has built-in heat protection.

If you want to achieve more fullness and volume and don’t mind some frizz, you can apply a leave-in or curl cream, brush style, then scrunch in gel at the end. This results in a bit more frizz and volume because the gel is not coating every strand.

• ​Tootilab All Weather Styling Gel​
  ​Buy from Tootilab with code GENAMARIE​
• ​Bounce Curl Water Mister​
  ​Buy from Bounce Curl with code GENAMARIE10​

Quickest Brush Styling Method

If you’re really in a hurry or want the simplest method, you can simply brush with some tension without sectioning. However this may not result in much curl enhancement and possible reduce volume. Tension is created when you apply pressure to your hair with the brush. That tension is what makes the curls smush together, clump, smooth frizz, and bounce up. You can apply pressure with your other hand against the brush or just push the brush into the hair from underneath. Using a brush with dense bristles will grab the hair and apply the most tension. However, for better results, I recommend sectioning your hair.

Step 2: Section your hair in clean lines

Purpose: Prevents snagging and makes brush styling easier. The thicker your hair, the more sections you’ll need.

Sectioning is critical because it makes it so much easier to brush style. This may take a few extra seconds, but you won’t get snags or your hair stuck in the brush if you section your hair.

Before creating sections, ensure your hair is detangled and run your hands through it to lift the hair off the scalp and create space.

Create sections by placing your two index fingers under the hair, to where they’re against the scalp and then move to the back until the meet. Maintain contact with your scalp while you’re doing this to create clean lines. Gather the hair and then separate it while holding the top section. Clip the top section up securely, ensuring there is not hair drooping down over the line. Hair that is dropped below the section line is what causes snags.

• ​Bounce Curl Volume Root Clips​
  ​Buy from Bounce Curl with code GENAMARIE10​

I’ve done a full video on sectioning for beginners, so I recommend watching that if you’re still struggling.

Then I apply my gel. As I mentioned previously, if you want less coverage of your gel for more volume and frizz, you can just apply your gel at the end of styling.

Best brushes for brush styling

With the right technique, you can brush style with any brush as long as it’s able to grab onto the hair. You can’t brush style with a wide-tooth comb because this doesn’t hold onto the hair or apply any tension.

You can use a regular hair brush and just apply tension, or use a brush that is designed for brush styling.

One of my favorites is the Bounce Curl EdgeLift Volume Brush because it is the quickest to use since it applies maximum tension and separates all at once with the grooves in it. It has dense bristles to really grab the hair and smooth it.

The downside to a dense brush is it can be too much tension for someone with weak for fragile hair. If your hair is very damage or super fine, I would avoid brush styling or use a very flexible brush.

• ​Bounce Curl Volume EdgeLift Brush​
  ​Buy from Bounce Curl with code GENAMARIE​
  ​Buy from Amazon​

I also like the Tangle Teezer. This brush is multipurpose so its also made for detangling or just distributing product, so you can use it to just brush through your hair. I would not brush through your hair or detangle with something as dense as the Bounce Curl brush.

The Tangle Teezer is fully plastic and it has flexible bristles. Depending on your technique, you can apply more or less tension for different results.

• ​Tangle Teezer Naturally Curly Detangling Brush​
  ​Buy from Amazon​
  ​Buy from Retailer​

Another option is the Curl Keeper Flexy brush, or any gentle detangling brush. This is designed for detangling so it has super flexible plastic bristles and they’re spaced far apart. This is what I would go with if my hair was very fragile. Because it’s so flexible, you’re really going to need to apply pressure with your other hand when styling.

• ​Curl Keeper Flexy Hair Brush​
  ​Buy from Amazon​

Step 3: Brush with tension beginning at the root

Purpose: The tension is what smooths the frizz down, clumps the curls, and enhances bounce.

1. Pick up a section of hair, no wider than your brush. Brush through it gently so it’s smooth.
2. Place your brush underneath, at the root, with the bristles pointing up. Then turn the brush so the hair presses against the base of the brush.
3. Brush up and away from the scalp while applying tension/pressure the full way down the strand.
4. Shake, finger coil, or scrunch to get the curls to return.

Incorrect brush styling

Simply brushing your hair from root to tip from above the hair will not create tension so it will not enhance the curls. This will only flatten the hair to the scalp and straighten it out. We need to create tension or pressure away from our scalp with our brush in order for it to smooth frizz and enhance the curls.

Another mistake is not applying pressure the full way through and just letting the hair drop out. This is often what causes the hair to straighten out and not curl.

If you’ve tried everything and your curls are still straightening out, you could need more protein, your hair is damaged, or you have wavy or very loose curls. Forcing the hair into the opposite direction that it naturally curls will also cause it to straighten out. Try switching the direction or angle of your brush to see if that helps.

If your hair is turning out stringy or frizzy, you may not have enough water in your hair and need to mist it as you’re styling.

Vertical sectioning:

If it’s still not curling at all (and you know you naturally have more curl) then it could be that you’re forcing the curls into the wrong direction. Try taking vertical sections instead and try curling toward your face or away from your face to see what works best.

The simplest way to brush style is brushing from underneath with a bit of tension, as vertical sections take more time.

It’s common for the hair to straighten a bit after it’s had tension, but you can gently shake it, finger coil it, or just scrunch to get the curl to return.

One area where I do vertical sections is around my front face-framing pieces. For me, it’s worth it to do a bit more precise brush styling and spend more time here because it’s a problem area for me. I have a lot of gray hairs that want to go wild, so vertical sections help keep them tucked into curl clumps.

It also defines the curls better that go in different directions or alternate.

Horizontal sections forces all of those curls into the same direction. I don’t always have to go in the perfect direction, but if I want my face-framing curls to fully spiral I will need to go in the proper direction per clump. I also usually have to finger coil in this section to get them to spiral in the right direction.

Tip for scalp showing:

Once you’re done styling, flip upside down and gently shake out the roots to break up any section lines. This is a great tip for those of you who have very low-density hair and your scalp shows easily.

Step 4: Microplop + Extra Gel

Purpose: Speed up dry time and increase hold/tame frizz

Once you’re happy with how it looks, the next step is to microplop with your hair towel (see below for example) and add extra gel.

Take your hair towel, using an area that is still damp, and gently scrunch from the bottom up. Be careful not to rough up the curls too much.

This absorbs the excess water to significantly cut down on dry time.

Then, add some extra gel by glazing it in and gently scrunch. This increase the hold and tames stubborn frizz because the hair is more dry.

• ​Hair RePear Ultimate Hair Towel​
  ​Buy from Amazon​

Step 5: Diffuse

Purpose: Set gel cast and the curl shape.

The last step is to diffuse which is also important if you’re someone who struggles with your curls falling or frizzing up quickly.

Diffusing sets the gel cast and freezes the curl shape in whichever position it’s in while drying. This is why I like to gather the hair in the diffuser and press it up towards my scalp. My curls will dry more defined and last longer.

Then, I use the prongs to lift the roots to create volume. Air drying often results a more elongated look and flatter roots. If you want to amp up the volume at the roots, add some root clips while your hair cools and sets after diffusing.

Once the hair is dry, you can scrunch out the cast. You can leave the cast in if you want it to last longer, or scrunch out the cast for a softer look. With dry hands, reach underneath and shake out the roots. Gently scrunch the lengths until it softens up. You can use an oil at this step too if your curls get really dry or brittle after wash day.

• ​Curlsmith Defrizzion Hair Dryer & XXL Diffuser​
  ​Buy from Curlsmith​
  ​Buy from Amazon​
  ​Buy from Retailer​

Results

My curls are much more even, defined, and bouncy with brush styling. It also creates longer-lasting results because the frizz stays tucked into clumps. Refreshing is much easier too when the hair is already clumped and not stringy.

When it comes to the Tootilab Gel, it gives great definition and about a medium hold. I do get more frizz than usual since it’s lighter hold than other strong hold gels. It’s also frizzy the next day but it’s easy to refresh with just water and the slip and cast returns. It’s a good fall/winter gel for me and can be used on its own.

🎁 Giveaway 🎁

Enter to win one of 3 Bounce Curl EdgeLift brushes!

There will be 3 winners!

1. Be an email subscriber (you are if you're receiving this email)
2. ​Comment on this post with a video request or what you’re struggling with
3. You must be located in the US

Winners will be chosen at random on Dec 15 and contacted by email. You’ll get to choose your color based on what has not been claimed yet.

Good luck!

Still struggling with styling or frizz?

If you’ve tried anything and you just can’t seem to master styling techniques, I can help you in a curl coaching session. I am soon going to be offering guided styling sessions where we will style together and I will guide you on exactly what to do.

This will only be available to my existing clients starting next year, so we’ll need to meet for the introductory call first to get your routine established. Prices are changing next year as well, so book now to lock in current reduced pricing.

DM me “coaching” on Instagram or Facebook to chat if it’s a fit.